蘿莉風格
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蘿莉風格（英語：Lolita fashion ，日語：ロリータ・ファッション）是一種時尚服飾次文化，源自日本。這種「哥德與蘿莉塔」的服飾風格是從維多利亞時代的女童服裝和洛可可時期的精細服裝的啟發，以及西方哥德與龐克次文化的影響而形成的。 這種穿衣風格的典型是及膝裙，內裡穿著紗裙或泡褲以達到散開的效果。通常以過膝襪或及膝襪配襯，尤其是上面印上玫瑰或皇冠圖案、有蕾絲花邊與荷葉邊的。典型的鞋子是可愛類型，近似童裝鞋，例如圓頭平底女鞋，另外薇薇安·魏斯伍德 的馬頭鞋和其他類似的鞋子也很常見。裙子通常以有飾邊的、有硬縐領的、或綴上蕾絲的維多利亞女裝襯衣，常配上彼得潘或水手服的衣領，或有蕾絲的長襯衣。 由於這種打扮與小說《蘿莉塔》的女主角以及日本動漫次文化中蘿莉的打扮相似，因此稱為蘿莉風格。 一些非中文的文字因为尚未翻譯而被隐藏，歡迎參與翻譯。
Other garments are either dresses in one or more pieces, or pinafore jumper skirts, made to be worn over a blouse. Lace-trimmed headdresses, mini-top hats worn to one side, and intricate old-fashioned jewelry are some favored accessories of lolitas. 不管其名，蘿莉風格不是指 is not meant to be a sexualized version of young girls. A true Lolita prides herself on her decency and innocence, and outfits that show too much skin are considered a 'bastardization of the fashion'. Though not the founder of the style, the Lolita fashion is often considered to have been popularised by Mana, of the band Malice Mizer, who also coined the term "Elegant Gothic Lolita" for his clothing brand.
[编辑] 蘿莉次文化
蘿莉風格又可分為哥德蘿莉、甜美蘿莉、古典蘿莉、以及龐克蘿莉。當然也有此種風格的延伸副產品，例如「和風蘿莉」。除此之外，「貴族風」與「王子風」這類次風格的流行有時候被認為是跟隨在蘿莉風格或蘿莉文化之後的。 [编辑] 哥德蘿莉影響是來自 哥德風格，哥德蘿莉大概會成為最流行的蘿莉風格和在西方是最認得出。這風格是原於約1997/1998年的次文化和成為已為大家接受的類型。約2001年，專賣流行衣物的小商店和較大的百貨公司都能買到。有些觀察者認為這是反映 "Kogal"美學。 It is commonly mistaken as the blanket term for Lolita fashion and Gothic Lolita in Western Lolita culture. The name "EGL" applies only to that specific line of clothing in Moi-même-Moitié, which is in the Gothic Lolita style. Non-Japanese outsiders sometimes refer to Gothic Lolita as EGL, but this is generally frowned upon within Western lolita circles, as anyone who uses it is assumed to have only a shallow understanding of the fashion. (See bottom paragraph for more.) 哥德蘿莉衣服可以分成次範疇:
化妝以暗色為主，跟其他的化淺色妝的蘿莉類型成對比。蒼白的臉更好，但不是「哥德/白臉」的蒼白。 紅 唇膏 和smokey 和/或 靈巧清晰的使用黑眼線膏和khol也會用。不過，這化妝不是很暗或像西方哥德的引人注目；而是比較輕柔。 The outfits may be accessorized with other props like conspicuous pocketbooks, hatboxes and handbags, sometimes in the shape of bats, coffins, and crucifixes. Teddy bears and other stuffed animals are occasionally carried, and some brands make special "goken" teddy bears out of black leather or 聚氯乙烯。 SD娃娃 may also be carried around. Gothic Lolita was influenced and popularized by the look of androgynous Visual Kei (or "visual rock") bands. Visual Kei is a Japanese form of rock music defined by bands featuring performers in elaborate costumes but whose musical style varies. Mana, the crossdressing former leader and guitarist of the Visual Kei band Malice Mizer, is widely credited for having helped popularize Gothic Lolita. He coined the terms Elegant Gothic Lolita (EGL) and Elegant Gothic Aristocrat (EGA) to describe the style of his own fashion label Moi-même-Moitié, which was founded in 1999 and quickly established itself as one of the most coveted brands of the Gothic Lolita scene. Another common Gothic Lolita brand is Atelier BOZ. [编辑] 甜美蘿莉甜美蘿莉(甘ロリ)的服裝通常包含非常高比例的蕾絲及褶邊，裙子及膝，並且使服裝的外觀看起來盡可能的甜美與可愛。其經常使用的顏色包括粉紅、粉藍，也有乳黃色與紅色。至於黑色如果包含上述的特徵及標準，當然也有甜美的效果。 甜美蘿莉也會將服裝上的印花設計成花朵、水果或其他甜食的樣子；在配件方面則常常有娃娃、布偶或泰迪熊。 此類服裝的範例可參考電影《下妻物語》中桃子所穿的樣式。 甜美蘿莉有一個次分類稱作「白蘿莉」。白蘿莉的服裝色系是全白或絕大部分由白色組成。 知名的甜美蘿莉的品牌有寶貝星光亮晶晶（Baby, The Stars Shine Bright）、Manifesteange Metamorphose temps de fille和Angelic Pretty等。 [编辑] 古典蘿莉[[Image:Classicloli.JPG|thumb|200px|left|Male and female examples of Classical Lolita. Note the man's contact lenses古典蘿莉是蘿莉風格的一種次分類，它是由維多利亞風（Victorian fashion，維多利亞時代的女裝風格）、巴洛克風及洛可可風所獲得的靈感而來的。此一風格不同於甜美蘿莉所散發出的天真爛漫，而呈現出更為成熟的風采，它以花朵或花朵似的造型為主題，具有深沈且柔和的顏色，纖細的樣式及法國皇宮式的腰身。使用的顏色包括全白、古典白、粉紅、葡萄酒紅、藍、咖啡、黑色等，其配件包括髮箍、花朵頭飾、女用手提包、及迷你的帽飾。 然而，「哥德蘿莉」中的典型樣式：黑白搭配的女僕裝、以及愛麗絲式的圍裙卻也經常被錯誤地貼上古典蘿莉的標籤。 知名的古典蘿莉品牌包括Innocent World, Mary Magdalene 和 Victorian Maiden。 [编辑] 龐克蘿莉龐克蘿莉是結合了龐克文化基礎的蘿莉風格。主要是基於龐克衣著，例如破爛的布料，彩格布，安全扣和鏈子，screen-printed的布料和短髮都合併於蘿莉。 Many of the Japanese punk brands take influence from London's famous Camden Town Markets and similar clothing can be found there at less cost. Punk Lolita is also tied to Vivienne Westwood, who, though not a lolita designer, has items and collections with a lolita feel, especially in her Japanese collections. 知名的龐克蘿莉品牌包括A+Lidel, Putumayo, h. NAOTO 和 Na+H. [编辑] 其他蘿莉風格[编辑] 和風蘿莉
和風蘿莉是傳統日式服裝與蘿莉風格的結合。通常將和服與裙子作一結合，或者將和服的下半身改造成蘿莉風格的樣式。 和風蘿莉此一名稱係源自於將日本稱為「和平之島」或「倭(Wa)島」的傳統 [编辑] 中國風蘿莉中國風蘿莉（旗蘿莉）與和風蘿莉類似，它結合了蘿莉與中國傳統服裝，例如旗袍或鳳仙裝等。 [编辑] 海盜蘿莉
海盜蘿莉保持原有蘿莉風格的特質，並結合歷史性與奇幻式的海盜服裝，例如迷你的三角船型帽（海盜戴在頭上那種）、藏寶箱式的手提包、航海上或海盜標誌所轉化而成的印花都是此一服裝風格的特徵。 Baby, The Stars Shine Bright的副牌，「Alice and the Pirates」他們的訴求就是推廣這種服裝樣式。 Manifesteange Metamorphose temps de fille的服裝也以其航海式的樣子(水手服...)聞名，然而他們的服裝並非從海盜而是從粉色系風格的相關服裝得來的靈感。 [编辑] 露出系蘿莉露出系蘿莉 (or Erololi) is erotic in a fetishistic sense, rather than in the revealing of skin. Erololi can use slightly shorter skirts than other Lolita styles, but it is erotic in the conservative Victorian sense, and is often more modest than a great deal of other contemporary fetish fashions. Its main components are often undergarments worn to be seen, such as corsets, bloomers, petticoats and garters. This should not be overdone, however; generally speaking, the most skin that should be shown is at the shoulders and knees. An erololi brand is Antique Beast. 露出系蘿莉（情色蘿莉）是指此類服裝讓人有情色、誘惑式的戀物情結，而非單純只是露出皮膚而已。露出系蘿莉會使用較其他蘿莉風格更短的裙子，因此以較為保守的維多利亞風觀點來看就會變得情色，然而此種服裝往往較現在市面上許多標榜性感的服裝更為謙虛低調。 露出系蘿莉的特點是露出內衣如紗裙、燈籠褲、襯裙、吊襪帶等，也會露出肩膀和膝蓋。 露出系蘿莉的其中一個品牌是Antique Beast。 [编辑] 王子風The male counterpart to Lolita fashion inspired by what was worn by Victorian schoolboys featuring knickerbockers, masculine blouses and shirts, trousers, and knee socks. Sometimes it overlaps with Dandy style. [编辑] KodonaThe term Kodona (from "kodomo otona", literally "child-adult") was coined by Plastic Tree's vocalist Ryuutarou Arimura as he described his dress sense, and is often used as the Western name for Ouji fashion. The two are interchangable. [编辑] AristocratAristocrat (or Madam when referring to the feminine version of the fashion) is a Japanese fashion that is inspired by what is thought to be worn by European Middle Class and above status persons in the Middle Ages and by fashion worn by the upper class in the 19th Century. The fashion includes long sleeve blouses and shirts, long skirts, corsetry, pants and dresses that are styled similarly for men and women, since it is centered on androgyny and elegance. The fashion is usually seen as a mature version of Lolita and is usually worn by people in their twenties and beyond. Make-up, when worn with the fashion, is on the darker side, may be heavy and can be worn by both genders. It is often mislabeled as Elegant Gothic Aristocrat, which is a brand label created by Mana for one of the lines in his Lolita and Aristocrat fashion brand Moi-même-Moitié. While never used in Japan to describe Aristocrat style as a whole, it is often mistakenly used in Western Lolita culture. Common aristocrat brands are Atelier Boz and Moi-même-Moitié. [编辑] DandyDandy is the western term for masculine Aristocrat and mature Ouji fashions, mostly inspired by what European upper class men wore in the 19th century. Its most outstanding feature is the use of frock coats and the jabot, a frilled neck piece. [编辑] Nomenclature一些非中文的文字因为尚未翻譯而被隐藏，歡迎參與翻譯。
Although "Lolita" is a reference to Vladimir Nabokov's famous novel, and Lolita is often worn by teens, followers of the style do not consider it overtly sexual. In fact, in Japan many of them were unaware of the connection to the book until it was introduced to them in the Gothic & Lolita Bible as a suggested read. Instead, adherents present themselves as children or baby dolls and consider it necessary to look "cute," "beautiful," or "elegant" rather than "sexy." Japanese culture places a higher value upon extremely youthful appearance and behaviour than Western, and some adult women buy large amounts of products, such as Hello Kitty goods, that are typically marketed only to children in the West. GothLoli is perhaps a more visible extension of this phenomenon. [编辑] 蘿莉文化罗莉塔风尚在西方发展成为一种类似自由维多利亚主义的文化,它包含了维多利亚风格与感性，如同时尚本身，提倡一种向现代生活中已经渐渐失去的童真和优雅的回归。像其他复古风格的潮流和文化一样，它会继续将一些现代原理、技术与风格包容到其理想之中。 [编辑] 歌特和罗莉塔的宝典一个特别的月刊杂志《歌特和罗莉塔宝典》，系统的诠释并确定了这样的一种风格. 100余页的杂志中，包含有潮流提示，照片，纺织纹样，种类描述，饰品衬物，甚至还有搭配窍门。 Mana是这个杂志的附属部分在其中经常有独家拍摄的照片。 [编辑] KERA and KERAMANIAXKERA publications are not completely lolita, showcasing visual kei, decora and j-punk brands as well, but they are cheaper than the previously mentioned magazines and almost as comprehensive. In particular, KERAMANIAX has collaborated with brands such as Putumayo on dual-name items. [编辑] ShoppingCurrently the heart of the Gothic and Lolita subculture, at least commercially, is the Marui Young department store in Shinjuku, after its predecessor Marui One closed at the end of August 2004. This large youth-fashion oriented department store has 4 floors entirely devoted to Gothic and Lolita and related fashions. Additionally, the "LaForet" department store in Harajuku is also considered a small mecca, with brands such as Putumayo, Angelic Pretty, h.Naoto, and Atelier Pierrot in the basement. Nearby are Maxicimam and Bodyline stores, though it is suggested that one avoid Bodyline unless on a strict budget. Now stores such as Moi-Meme-Moitie, Baby, the Stars Shine Bright, Metamorphose Temps de Fille, Closet Child and many others sell lolita fashion at their outlets and online. Boutiques are increasingly offering English-language web sites and international shipping; however, some fashions are only available through shopping services. Western Gothic and Lolita boutiques such as The White Peacock, Candy Violet, Apple Sugar, Blasphemina's Closet, Fanplusfriend Garden and In the Starlight are becoming increasingly popular.[來源請求] [编辑] 動漫Characters dressed in Lolita style may be found in numerous anime and manga, some of the most prominent being Kamikaze Girls, 百變小櫻, 天國之吻, Le Portrait de Petit Cossette, X-Day, 妹妹公主, 薔薇少女, 公主公主, 月詠, Othello, Chobits, XxxHolic, Nana, Coyote Ragtime Show,The Melancholy of Haruhi Suzumiya, 死亡筆記, Princess Ai and recently Digimon Savers. [编辑] 電影2004年的日本電影《下妻物語》中深田恭子與土屋安娜就展示了蘿莉風格服裝。 [编辑] 文學The Shimotsuma Monogatari novel by Novala Takemoto inspired the film and manga. Alice Ever Falling is a three-volume illustrated novel series with characters dressed in Gothic Lolita fashion. [编辑] 參見一些非中文的文字因为尚未翻譯而被隐藏，歡迎參與翻譯。
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